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Anyone use the '99-'04 Mustang Hydroboost?

Discussion in 'LS-427' started by jmcarson3, Apr 25, 2016.

  1. jmcarson3

    jmcarson3 New Member

    I have a 1998 LS427 donor kit that for many reasons is still in assembly. I'm at a point where I am able to spend more time on it again, so I'm making steady progress. I am currently working on the pedals, firewall and brake MC assembly. My donor car was a fox body mustang, but I don't like the pedal set and the giant vacuum booster. I want power brakes, so I'm considering swapping for the pedal set and hydroboost + MC from a 99-04 mustang. Has anyone used this hydroboost system in their kit build?
  2. Luce

    Luce Member

    Are you running power steering? If not, and with the heavyish clutch, the balance bar tilton (or wilwood or similar) double master cylinder set up is a good balance for effort with the steering and clutch. I can stand the car on it's nose without grunting, with the dynalite caliper wilwood setup. While it's not a feather light overboosted feel, it's not at all an area of complaint. And as a benefit, you can adjust the front/rear braking balance with the turn of a bolt.
  3. jmcarson3

    jmcarson3 New Member

    Luce, thanks so much for your feedback and recommendations on the Tilton and other after-market parts. I am definitely trying to approach my build making use of as many donor car parts as possible to save on overall cost. I do not currently have power steering, but I am considering it if the '04 Mustang hydroboost will be a more compact means of having power brakes (compared to the Mustang fox-body vacuum booster that I currently have).
  4. Luce

    Luce Member

    I understand not needlessly spending money, but by the time you get the hydroboost and plumbing parts, you'll be in for near the same dollar figure with a lesser outcome. In my opinion, boosted brakes with manual steering is out of balance. With such a short wheelbase, you don't want to be accidentally locking brakes, adn the balance bar is a really big advantage when it comes to balancing the front to rear. If you stay with the stock pedal, maybe instead of the booster, find a 1" bore MC instead of the standard 1.125 I think most assisted MCs are.

    $200 shipping included... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wilwood-340...ash=item2c889a0a72:g:JVwAAOSwqu9VAUXB&vxp=mtr and it includes the clutch pedal too.
  5. cobrapilot

    cobrapilot Member

    If your kit is a 98, then you probably have the old style pedal box. My 01 kit was the same. I, and most everyone else with this box have remade our pedals to spread them out more evenly in the foot wells. By default, the clutch and brake were way over on the left wall. It's a simple matter to cut the pedals arms and weld on a spacer. Using the wilwood pedals might make it necessary to relocate the master cylinders.
    Here's a pic of my homade pedals.

  6. jmcarson3

    jmcarson3 New Member

    Luce & Cobrapilot. Thanks for the additional responses!

    Cobrapilot, my pedals were so far to the left that I cut up a portion of the firewall to move them further right. I was really dead set (for a while) on using the fox-body pedal set from my donor car, but in the end I'm scrapping it because I'm still not happy with the pedals and especially the lack of clearance with the vacuum booster.

    Luce, I am actually considering putting power steering back onto my car, but I haven't decided for certain yet... that's a topic for a different thread though. I looked at the link to the Wilwood pedals, and you've given me some food for thought. I need to locate some more info on the pedal set to understand what else is needed. Looks like this set works with manual brakes and would require two master cylinders (one for front and one for rear brakes). I also assume there are provisions for a clutch cable attachment. I'll hunt for further spec sheets, and I may PM you if I have questions. Is this the set that you used on your build?

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