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Discussion in 'General Comments and Questions' started by Jerry, May 11, 2015.

  1. Jerry

    Jerry New Member

    My son and I have a year into our build and have a number of issues that we hope you can help us with:

    How close to the outer wall do you cut the fiberglass for the door hinge to open? i.e. within 3/8"?
    What have you used for a door stop so the door hinge does not touch the body at full open?
    What mounting techniques (support brackets, etc) have you used to strengthen the hood prop rod at the lower end?
    What hood stuts (vs prop rod) have you found that work well? (Mfr, type, one or two, etc)
    What sway bars have you found to be most functional / applicable for this suspension and did you use a standard unit from an existing mfr or create your own?
    Did you install "door scuff plates" at each door? If so, provide some detail on what you did.
    Have your found that chip guards are a good idea for the leading edge of the rear fender flare? If yes, what works well?
    Have you upgraded your head lights? If so, with what? Did they fit within the existing bulb mount?
    What sources have you used for upgrade alternates to the standard LSC seats? Will plan to add heaters for each.
    We are adding a trunk light, where do we find a good source for the on / off switch?
    Do you use bumper rod grommets? If yes, why, if not why?

    Your feedback is appreciated,
    Jerry ( Carrollton, TX )

  2. Luce

    Luce Member

    OK, that's far too many questions for one post.

    I'll take a stab at a few.

    For the door stop and scuff plate, I did neither and it's weathering well. As for the door stop, if you cut the body square where the hinge hits, and leave enough of the flange, the door can hit it and act as it's own stop. See pic.

    For seats, if you're liking the low back traditional, mine started life as these http://www.ebay.com/itm/PAIR-BLACK-SUED ... 2a2d203119 but I had them recovered in leather, added seat heaters and an air bladder and pump from a Jag for lumbar. They're very comfy and supportive around corners... if you're not too wide in the ass department. See here for near finished product. viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2178

    Speedway Engineering sells torsion bars of a few standard lengths, arms and bushing blocks. Also, Ebay has tones if you search "schroeder" on ebay. Once you have it set up, you can easily replace the torsion bar for under $100 to fine tune it. There's quite a few old threads about adding sway bars. Look around before you leap.

    I started with a gas strut on instead of a prop rod, and it worked until I ran out of real estate under the hood and ditched it for a prop rod. If you use a rod, make sure it has a positive latch to the hood side so a gust of wind doesn't lift it off, let the rod fall, and drop the hood on it.

    Attached files 4782-2063.JPG (32.2 KB)
  3. Jerry

    Jerry New Member

    Thank you for the response. I will check it all out.
  4. Jerry

    Jerry New Member

    Your interior looks great. Where did you mount your VIN number tag?
  5. Luce

    Luce Member

    Actually, I never did mount a vin tag. I made one and had it with me when I did the first safety inspection prior to getting it titled, but never bothered mounting it anywhere.
  6. Jerry

    Jerry New Member

    Where did you place your seat heater controls?
  7. Luce

    Luce Member


    In the center console, I have 3 knobs and 4 lights. The outer 2 knobs and lights run pulse width modulators with indicator lights that give you variable levels of heat. The center is a PWM for the A/C-Heat fan. If you turn it right of center it's heat, left of center is AC.

    I made my own module, but you could easily use this one. http://www.ebay.com/itm/10A-6V-12-24V-P ... 3a90e6cb0d It's from the East and cheap enough, so buy 4 or 5 and have a few spares for if something goes amiss...
  8. undy

    undy Member

    Here's mine....
  9. Jerry

    Jerry New Member

    Thanks for the pic - very nice tag.
  10. Jerry

    Jerry New Member

    Thanks for the seat heater control link. What seat heater pad package did you go with and have they worked well for you? I plan to upgrade our seats to something along the line of what you have posted and will add the heater package as well before the final uplostery work.
  11. Jerry

    Jerry New Member

    Forgot to mention, in reference to your Z06 tag line....
    I recently completed the two day Ron Fellows Performance Driving School in NV. Drove the 2015 Z06 and had the time of my life on their track - it is a fabulous vehicle and drives like a dream. It is now on my future car list. You were way ahead of me on this one!
  12. TexasDoc

    TexasDoc Member

    I'll try a few...

    I have the chip guards made by David Brady. Same guy that we all used for paint. Basically he just took some black vinyl with adhesive backing, scuffed it up with a red abrasive pad, and stuck it in place. Sounds simple enough, but cutting it out and getting it exactly right would take a little time. Mine look fine. Don't remember what he charged for those - I think it was around $100.

    Brady also makes door sill plates with "COBRA" etched on them. They are ok. Not sure I would go with those again.

    I did upgrade my headlights. Note that these are NOT DOT certified.
    I bought these lights: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008DQV88Q
    These bulbs: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000COBLKW
    Ceramic wiring harnesses: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0097AA478
    Larger trim rings: http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-23972-42408.aspx?origin=keyword - I got these from O'Reilly - needed since the Cibie headlights are slightly larger than stock.

    Basically remove the light from the headlight housing, and replace the light fixture with the above. Make sure you wire the lights correctly. I did dremel a hole in the back of the housing when I installed the new ceramic harnesses. I figured it would help exhaust some of the heat the higher wattage bulbs were producing. Also, make sure you use a relay and heavy gauge wiring to the lights. The 14-16 gauge wire that comes in the Painless kit is inadequate for even the stock bulbs. When looking at the back of the BULB, these are the wires:

    Low Beam __
    Ground - | | - High Beam

    The forum keeps messing up the design. Basically when looking at the back of the bulb, the ground is on the left, the low beam on the top, and the high beam on the right.

    I got these seats from Summit: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sca-80-1615-51/overview/
    I like the high backed seats as head protection. I don't want to get hit from behind and break my neck. Plus, they hold the seat belts in place. I had them recovered in leather by my upholstery guy. He did have to trim approx 1 inch off the side bolsters to get them to fit inside the door. No sliders - just bolted to the floor.
  13. Jerry

    Jerry New Member

    Lots of great info there TexasDoc. Thank you.
    As for the body work / paint job, do you recommend David? If yes, what is his phone number?
  14. TexasDoc

    TexasDoc Member

    David Brady is in Ennis, Texas, right by the race track.
    He does good work. Many/most of us had him paint our cars.
    I hear he has been relatively ill they last few months/year.
    If you go to Brady, make sure you don't need the car back anytime soon.
    Average turnaround seems to be about 4 months.

    He doesn't give you a time or a price.
    Its done when its done. It costs as much as it costs (based on the quality of the
    body, how much prep work he has to do, plus the cost/quailty of paint you select).

    I'm sure others will chime in on their opinions. His number is: 214-755-1156

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